Popping in at Edgars Inn

A few years back I started to post reviews to Google Maps. It was just for fun and because it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make your everyday life worthwhile. I recently heard from Google that the photos with my reviews had been viewed over 460,000 times – who would ever have guessed? It was ironic then that I had never mentioned the place I go to most of all – Edgars Inn at Ainslie shops in Canberra.

This is a location that has gone from strength to strength over the 20 years I have been going there. It now has the downstairs pub – the longest-running venue – and two upstairs venues, The Inn, a restaurant and bar, and Wakefields Bar, with more of a lounge feel. It also has a private dining area upstairs and Mama Dough, a pizza outlet downstairs. It’s in the heart of the Red Centre, so-called because supposedly at one time, it had the highest Labor vote in the country. 

Breakfast of poached eggs and smoked salmon on muffins with spinach and hollandaise sauce.

‘I’ve been going for 20 years and even though I have now moved to the opposite side of Canberra, I still keep coming back regularly. The proof of the pudding – or the burger – is in the eating.’

Even better in real life – the magnificent Maison Jazey

Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about an exceptional place on France. I don't know how I found tiny Semur-en-Auxois, and then the magnificent Maison Jazey, from Australia months before we went there, but I'm glad I did. It's one of those places that looks fabulous online, and then turns out to be even better in real life.

We discovered Maison Jazey at the end of a trip that included a cruise up the Rhine from Amsterdam to Basel, when we spent a week and a half in Northern Burgundy before a finale in London. There have been a few exceptional places like Maison Jazey – our first ever (and possibly almost our last) Air BnB in Vaison-la-Romaine in Provence in France, a Landmark Trust gatehouse in Saddell on the Kintyre Peninsula on the West Coast of Scotland and a National Trust stone fishing cottage in Port Quinn on the West Cornish coast – but not many. They are places you remember – again and again – forever.

The magnificent Maison Jazey.

‘It's a beautiful apartment in a beautiful building in a beautiful town, not much more than an hour by car to all the sights of Burgundy,’

The hosts were terrific and very welcoming. It was like living in a very liveable museum or your very own chateau. The place is extremely roomy, with high windows with shutters, filled with light, and warm. The kitchen is terrific and the parquetry floors – a personal favourite of mine – are amazing. We stayed nine days and could easily have stayed longer.

 

Like living in a very comfortable art gallery or museum.

Beautiful apartment in a beautiful building in a beautiful town
It's a beautiful apartment in a beautiful building in a beautiful town, not much more than an hour by car to all the sights of Burgundy (and many are only twenty minutes away). On top of that there are lots of places in walking distance in the town. There are some high quality shops (I still have a substantial belt that was cut to length as I stood in the shop) and a very reasonably priced Michelin-starred restaurant, La Fontaignotte, which was exceptional and had magnificent views from its terrace.

'The Romans decided they could move from the hill fortress to the plain since once they had defeated everybody, there were no threats to guard against.' 

View of vegetable gardens and the river valley from Michelin-starred restaurant, La Fontaignotte.

It was a real treat in a part of Burgundy where we hadn’t previously been. Dijon was a revelation and after we came back I was reading about its first class art museum and exclaimed ‘I wish we had seen that’, then realised we had, we’ve seen every corner of it it for hours and hours. It was exceptional.

Interior of Maison Jazey – the dining room with the parquetry floor that was throughout the apartment.

Rediscovering France – and French

Northern Burgundy seems to be close to everything. We drove to the ancient Celtic hill fortress of Bibracte, the site where, after defeating the Gauls, Julius Caesar wrote his book, The Gallic Wars. Then we headed down the hill to the site of what became the Roman capital of the region, Autun. The Romans decided they could move from the hill fortress to the plain since once they had defeated everybody, there were no threats to guard against. We bought a top notch locally made umbrella there and it is still doing its job back in Australia.

Walking through the medieval quarter of Semur-en-Auxois in the rain. 

I also had the chance to rediscover my French, especially in the tiny, well-stocked shop next door to our chateau. I studied the language for six years in high schooI in Tasmania, so I did pick up quite a bit (J’ai étudié le Francais pendant six ans a l’ecole). I realisd though that while I read French reasonably well and speak a limited amount of French reasonably fine, I understand spoken French badly – there’s just too many words at once. My education was good, but it didn’t prepare me as well as I would have liked. Still, practice makes perfect.

© Stephen Cassidy 2025

See also

Echoes of Tasmania on the island to the North – chilling out in summer in the Snowy Mountains
‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a location a mere two and a half hours from Canberra. The Snowy Mountains are one of the best reasons to live in the national capital. We've been there more times than I can count. I've reviewed some of our favourite places, but have yet to add a few more, even though we've been to them numerous times. Thredbo is an obvious drawcard, but there are many lesser known spots, like Tinkersfield, on the way to Thredbo, for accommodation, and Wild Brumby Schnapps Distillery for terrific food and drink (some of which they distill themselves). It's as close to the centre of Tasmania, where I grew up, between Cradle Mountain National Park and Lake St Clair,’ Echoes of Tasmania on the island to the North – chilling out in summer in the Snowy Mountains.

The short road to Sydney – out and about in Surry Hills and Bowral
‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about Sydney and the Southern Highlands. Given Canberra is increasingly moving closer to Sydney – it used to take four and a half hours to drive to Sydney and it’s now down to three hours, door to door, we have developed a habit of recent decades of driving to Sydney for wild times (more recently, mild times), followed by a wind down in the Southern Highlands on the way home. This means that posts about both places often sit well together, even of the visits are always at the same time’, The short road to Sydney – out and about in Surry Hills and Bowral.

Moss Manor – on a rise above Moss Vale

‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visits and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a relatively new place to stay in Moss Vale. Moss Manor was a newly-discovered place for us, even though we have been visiting Moss Vale for years. It only opened the year before we visited. It was very impressive and a great addition to the Southern Highlands. We had a fantastic time utilising a special offer on a three day break from daily life. Even though, now they are established, the special offer seems to have ceased and we can't afford to go back, it's extremely high quality and highly recommended’, Moss Manor – on a rise above Moss Vale.

Echoes of Tasmania on the island to the North – chilling out in summer in the Snowy Mountains

Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a location a mere two and a half hours from Canberra. A mere two and a half hours from Canberra, the Snowy Mountains are one of the best reasons to live in the national capital. We've been there more times than I can count. I've reviewed some of our favourite places, but have yet to add a few more, even though we've been to them numerous times. Thredbo is an obvious drawcard, but there are many lesser known spots, like Tinkersfield, on the way to Thredbo, for accommodation, and Wild Brumby Schnapps Distillery for terrific food and drink (some of which they distill themselves). It's as close to the centre of Tasmania, where I grew up, between Cradle Mountain National Park and Lake St Clair.

Holed up in Thredbo Dec 2024/Jan 2025
The Thredbo Alpine Hotel is an alpine heritage gem. After our stay, I rated everything highly, even though as a heritage hotel, some things are showing their age, despite upgrades and refreshes. We also missed the hotel sunken bar, which was closed during the quiet season when we were there. None of this detracts from the charm of this historic place. We love staying here and keep coming back during the summer quiet period (and sometimes the not-so-quiet summer period) when it's not too hectic – all those car parks must get used sometime – and the rates are usually good.

Winter at Thredbo looks pretty good – but summer is our time.

A Chef’s Tour – roaming Bangkok foodie spots

Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is only the third Asian city I have been to. One thing you can say about Bangkok – it never seems to stop. It’s sprawling, crowded, busy and boisterous – and at times as you encounter the traffic, seemingly life-threatening. We wouldn’t normally have chosen to come to Bangkok, but our flights worked through the city, so it was an unexpected bonus.

We arrived very early in the morning at the tail end of a trip that included a cruise up the Rhine from Amsterdam to Basel, followed by a couple of weeks in Northern Burgundy and a finale in London. The airport was fairly chaotic, through I did comment at the security desk on the way out of Bangkok, as we boarded the Thai Airways flight to Australia, that it was the fastest fast lane I’d ever encountered. With a long history of enjoying Thai food all over Australia – like most Australians – we discovered a food tour of Bangkok and decided that we couldn’t visit the city without going on one.

The first of many stops on the foodie tour.

Everything was ready
The Old Siam Chef's Tour was fabulous and absolutely topped off our visit to Bangkok. We went to so many markets and tiny restaurants, jumped on a canal ferry and a tuk tuk and a bus, and ate so many varied and marvellous dishes. Our champion guides, Annie and Champion, were like a well-oiled machine, ensuring everything was organised in advance and guaranteeing that the food was fresh and fabulous. One roamed ahead of us and made sure that everything was ready and everything, like bus fares, was paid.

The short road to Sydney – out and about in Surry Hills and Bowral

Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about Sydney and the Southern Highlands. Given Canberra is increasingly moving closer to Sydney – it used to take four and a half hours to drive to Sydney and it’s now down to three hours, door to door, we have developed a habit of recent decades of driving to Sydney for wild times (more recently, mild times), followed by a wind down in the Southern Highlands on the way home. This means that posts about both places often sit well together, even of the visits are always at the same time.

Franquette Creperie, Bowral June 2025
Franquette Creperie is a gem of a place in the main street of Bowral. It describes itself as a contemporary creperie and it is. On a cold winter night we had a quiet corner. It worked well for our party of two, but it is obviously also a huge hit with family groups – and you can see why.

Pulled pork with cheese, potatoes and onions in a mustard sauce

We had two galettes - the duck breast with orange and the pulled pork with cheese, potatoes and onions in a mustard sauce (I won't try to capture the French letters on this keyboard). Wednesday night was a special, so we followed with crepe suzette (more orange, but can there ever be too much orange?).

Moss Manor – on a rise above Moss Vale

Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a relatively new place to stay in Moss Vale. Moss Manor was a newly-discovered place for us, even though we have been visiting Moss Vale for years. It only opened the year before we visited. It was very impressive and a great addition to the Southern Highlands. We had a fantastic time utilising a special offer on a three day break from daily life. Even though, now they are established, the special offer seems to have ceased and we can't afford to go back, it's extremely high quality and highly recommended.

Moss Manor was luxurious, well renovated, top quality and very comfortable. Heated bathroom floors were a bonus. The renovated function rooms/dining rooms and lounge at the rear were a very effective addition to a heritage house (and double glazed, which is good, because one of the other great attractions of Moss Vale is its trains and they passed behind very close).

The front door to Moss Manor in the former Council Chambers.

Nearby activities
Just down a short hill are all the attractions of Moss Vale – more excellent furniture, design and homeware shops than you can count and Mosaic Wine Bar, so good it should be my local.

Short note: wine bars, wineries and restaurants I have known...

Over the years I have posted many short reviews to Google Maps, to the point where now I have had over 30,000 views of my reviews and over 460,000 views of the accompanying photos – and they keep on growing. I realised that many of these have never been posted to this blog, which is my main outlet for news about food, drink, produce and places to visit.

Short note: Wine Room Braddon Sep 2023
I discovered the little bar and restaurant, the Wine Room, almost by accident, well by word of mouth, which is the best accident of all. Someone told me about it and I've already told other people about it and so on it goes. Tucked away in a lane you could easily miss, behind coffee shop Gather – which has a good reputation of its own, though I've not tried it yet - this is a serious addition to the Braddon vibe. I've eaten there – and been very impressed. I've drunk wine there – most recently half an hour before I wrote these words – and enjoyed it immensely. 

They have a good focus on local winemakers but also a taste for the unusual and the interesting beyond this region. I had a rosé which was very different to any rosé I have had before and my companion had a sauvignon blanc which stood out from the usual generica that passes as sauvignon blanc. Whether you make a night of it or, as we just did, have a quick drink on the way through, this is a place with a beautifully designed fitout that's worth spending time and dollars in. The world needs more places like this.

View across the vines from Margan Winery, Hunter Valley.

Short note: Birch Sep 2022
We went here for a quiet birthday dinner and were extremely impressed. Moss Vale really has become the place over the years. Sometimes you feel that the food in restaurants like this can be merging into similar territory but I didn’t find that at all.

Finding myself on Google Maps

On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy.

The longer version of what I write about food, drink, produce and places to stay can all be found on my Tableland blog. Some years back – seven to be exact – I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. They included commentary on restaurants and accommodation, both in Australia and overseas. It was a fun thing to do and I enjoyed writing about places I had liked. I don’t write about places I don’t like or that were disappointing – I’m not a reviewer in that sense.

Finding myself - almost everywhere - on Google Maps.

At one stage I received a notification from Google that the 33 photos illustrating those reviews had been viewed 254,991 times. The photo of two chefs hard at work plating up in Minima restaurant in Yarralumla had alone been viewed 4,627 times. Somehow it seems I had become one of the top 10% of reviewers posting on Google Maps – all I can say is not many other people must be posting there! Anyway, it keeps me entertained.

Recognising local (and not so local) businesses
Obviously Google Maps gets checked a lot by people looking for recommendations. It’s a pity the more than 300 articles about creativity and culture on my blogs don’t get that number of views! It’s also a pity I don’t make any money from all this free content, but I console myself by thinking that it’s good to recognise and acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. Given the vast number of views my reviews inexplicably get, I’m definitely doing my bit for the hospitality sector.

I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy. I had considered stopping but I’m finding it too hard, so I guess my reviews will keep on popping up on Google Maps for a while yet.

© Stephen Cassidy 2025

See also

Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital

‘Recently we finally made it to the tiny little restaurant in Yarralumla called Minima, where we sat at the counter and tried to avoid distracting the chefs as they got on with it. I suppose being a chef is like being a nurse – long and unusual hours, lots of stress and tight deadlines, difficult customers and high expectations. Avoiding distraction we ordered and then the world suddenly burst into colour’, Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital.

Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel 

‘On a recent visit to the South Coast we drove to the tiny and attractive town of Milton for lunch. Milton is perched on a thin ridge, with hills and views either side and the escarpment towering in the distance. Unfortunately, like Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands – another favourite place – the main street is also the main highway. Cross if you dare. Once across, though, it's a place well worth spending time in’, Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel.

Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion

‘A few weeks ago we headed down the Coast for a short break. Once again we found ourselves at Bannisters Pavilion – the cheap version of Rick Stein’s Bannisters Lodge at Mollymook, a bit more distant from the sea, but a bit closer to the ever-enticing town of Milton. In winter Bannisters have sales because no-one wants to go to the seaside – except those who live there – and we love a bargain’, Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion.

Grazing at Grazing 

‘I don’t know how long I have been coming to eat at Grazing – too long to remember, probably. Who can forget the fabulous fish pie that was a staple for so long? On this visit, after a considerable absence, we took a couple of visiting Melbourne friends there to sit near the open fire in a Canberra winter. It has always been good, but on this visit it seemed to be even better’, Grazing at Grazing.

Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale

‘Back in the Southern Highlands after some time, we rediscovered – yet again – all the things we have liked so much about that part of the country over the last 25 years. We visited Bistro Sociale – in the Berida Hotel – for dinner on our first night. We’ve been there many times and the place just gets better and better. I had two dishes that were exceptional – the spatchcock and the chocolate fondant. I realised that when I late ate there in January I had picked the same main course – because it is extremely good and interesting. I love spatchcock and they do one of the best’, Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale.

Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy

On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood’, Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy.

Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.

Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital

‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.

The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.

Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific. 

 

The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney. 

 

Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style

‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.

In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms. 

 The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.

Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital

Recently we finally made it to the tiny little restaurant in Yarralumla called Minima, where we sat at the counter and tried to avoid distracting the chefs as they got on with it. I suppose being a chef is like being a nurse – long and unusual hours, lots of stress and tight deadlines, difficult customers and high expectations. Avoiding distraction we ordered and then the world suddenly burst into colour.

Morks was a legendary Thai restaurant at the Kingston Foreshores here in Canberra. We went several times and enjoyed it – others went much more often. Then it closed. When restaurants close they often disappear – to much disappointment amongst their clientele. The good news was that Morks was miraculously reborn as Minima – and it is fantastic.

We sat at the counter and tried to avoid distracting the chefs. 

‘As I sat down the waiter explained that [the] restaurant…leaned towards China, Vietnam and Asia generally. I thought that as we neared the end of an election which would help set Australia’s direction for the future through the massive global tectonic shifts underway, increasingly we would all be leaning that way.’

Even better, we were amazed to see that the very knowledgeable wine expert, who used to give us advice at Edgars in Ainslie, had finally made a move and transferred to Minima. That means you can pick both good food and good wine.

Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel

On a recent visit to the South Coast we drove to the tiny and attractive town of Milton for lunch. Milton is perched on a thin ridge, with hills and views either side and the escarpment towering in the distance. Unfortunately, like Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands – another favourite place – the main street is also the main highway. Cross if you dare. Once across, though, it's a place well worth spending time in.

 

The revamped Milton Hotel - on the corner of the main road in Milton.

We had lunch at the Milton Hotel and it was a revelation. For many years we’d been visiting Milton and seeing signs notifying everyone that the pub was being renovated and would open again soon. Well, all I can say is ‘not soon enough.’ This was our first visit and it didn’t disappoint. The space is several spaces, all interesting, including a stretching balcony overlooking the rolling hills of the South Coast.

 How to use a wood-fired oven - wood roasted fish and wood-fired prawns and flatbread.

 'I am very partial to dark beers and this was a dark beer heaven.' 

The food was terrific – their large open wood fired oven is a big feature. We had wood roasted fish with peas, crunchy samphire and clam velouté, wood fired prawns with curry butter, tamarind and lime and wood fired flatbread with smoked mussel butter. 

Dark beer heaven.

Washed up on the shore - on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion

A few weeks ago we headed down the Coast for a short break. Once again we found ourselves at Bannisters Pavilion – the cheap version of Rick Stein’s Bannisters Lodge at Mollymook, a bit more distant from the sea, but a bit closer to the ever-enticing town of Milton. In winter Bannisters have sales because no-one wants to go to the seaside – except those who live there – and we love a bargain. 

There seems to be an umbilical cord connecting Canberra to the South Coast of New South Wales. In many ways it’s not surprising. When I lived in Sydney a trip to Ulladulla was a longish drive, whereas from Canberra to Batemans Bay is a quick two hours hop down the mountainside – though admittedly there is a quite a bit of ‘down’ in that.

'There seems to be an umbilical cord connecting Canberra to the South Coast of New South Wales. In many ways it’s not surprising.' 

Many Canberrans have ‘shacks’ (aka holiday houses) somewhere amongst a string of South Coast townships. Many years ago, when I lived in Sydney, I stayed in a campground at Racecourse Beach and was astounded at the high proportion of ACT number plates – though now I live in Canberra I’m no longer surprised.

Despite the main road through Milton also being the main highway, it is a charming and attractive town that keeps drawing us back.

 

Grazing at Grazing

I don’t know how long I have been coming to eat at Grazing – too long to remember, probably. Who can forget the fabulous fish pie that was a staple for so long? On this visit, after a considerable absence, we took a couple of visiting Melbourne friends there to sit near the open fire in a Canberra winter. It has always been good, but on this visit it seemed to be even better.

Who cooks rabbit anymore?

When we had been seated near the fire at Grazing and I heard the list of specials I was impressed. There was a rabbit pie – who cooks rabbit anymore? I haven’t eaten rabbit since I lived in Adelaide, which counting back means I haven’t eaten rabbit for almost 30 years.

 

Out of control rabbits for a classically controlled pie.

Given the out of control number that seem to be running everywhere, especially in Canberra, we should probably be eating rabbit every second day, just like in the 1930s. Needless to say the rabbit pie was exceptional.

 Prawns on brioche jumps in the mouth.

The other new feature was a series of small appetisers, what the French call amuse bouche. One of our guests tried the prawns on a brioche bun and was suitably impressed.

  A definite success - Gundagai lamb rump with anchovy butter, celeriac, braised cavalo nero and olives. Clever accompaniments lifted the excellent lamb to a different level.

I don’t normally order lamb because in some restaurants it can be a bit disappointing, but for the main meal I had a Gundagai lamb rump with anchovy butter, celeriac, braised cavalo nero and olives and that was a definite success. Clever accompaniments lifted the excellent lamb to a different level.

All in all, all our many and varied dishes – all first-rate– managed to keep us all well content until our next visit. We'll be back again in only a couple of weeks, so we can repeat the experience - or enhance it.

© Stephen Cassidy 2025

See also

Finding myself on Google Maps

‘On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy’, Finding myself on Google Maps.

Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion

‘A few weeks ago we headed down the Coast for a short break. Once again we found ourselves at Bannisters Pavilion – the cheap version of Rick Stein’s Bannisters Lodge at Mollymook, a bit more distant from the sea, but a bit closer to the ever-enticing town of Milton. In winter Bannisters have sales because no-one wants to go to the seaside – except those who live there – and we love a bargain’, Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion.

Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale

‘Back in the Southern Highlands after some time, we rediscovered – yet again – all the things we have liked so much about that part of the country over the last 25 years. We visited Bistro Sociale – in the Berida Hotel – for dinner on our first night. We’ve been there many times and the place just gets better and better. I had two dishes that were exceptional – the spatchcock and the chocolate fondant. I realised that when I late ate there in January I had picked the same main course – because it is extremely good and interesting. I love spatchcock and they do one of the best’, Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale.

Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy

On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood’, Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy.

Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.

Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital

‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.

The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.

Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific. 

 

The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney. 

 

Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style

‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.

In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms. 

 The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.