Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts.
Life in the national capital is always interesting. Recently, as the days began to cool, I was reminded of my childhood in the central wilds of Tasmania. It was in a landscape much like here, when we roamed the endless paddocks on the hunt for mushrooms, though there were only two kinds of fungi on our horizon – mushrooms and toadstools.
Topical gatherings around fascinating topics
Following in the French tradition of topical gatherings around fascinating topics, I attended an evening called Cafe Champignon. Fungologist Alison Pouliot, formerly of the ANU Fenner School of Environment and Society brought fungi into a local lounge room near me. As the invitation to the evening noted ‘in a welcome reminder that the world is definitely becoming more fungal and less viral.’ It was a fine thing to do on a chilly Canberra night.
Life in the national capital is always interesting. Recently, as the days began to cool, I was reminded of my childhood in the central wilds of Tasmania. It was in a landscape much like here, when we roamed the endless paddocks on the hunt for mushrooms, though there were only two kinds of fungi on our horizon – mushrooms and toadstools.
Topical gatherings around fascinating topics
Following in the French tradition of topical gatherings around fascinating topics, I attended an evening called Cafe Champignon. Fungologist Alison Pouliot, formerly of the ANU Fenner School of Environment and Society brought fungi into a local lounge room near me. As the invitation to the evening noted ‘in a welcome reminder that the world is definitely becoming more fungal and less viral.’ It was a fine thing to do on a chilly Canberra night.
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| In search of wild mushrooms - how not to poison yourself |
Alison’s new book (co-authored with Dr Tom May, a Senior Research Scientist in Mycology at Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria) is ‘Wild mushrooming: a guide for foragers’. She read tantalising snippets from this and from her previous book, ‘The allure of fungi’, and answered some of the big questions – which fungi are delectable? Which are deadly? How do we differentiate them? Why does Canberra have the gruesome repute as the deathcap capital? And even, how can fungi give us new ways of thinking about the living world? It’s clearly a very popular subject and Alison has had some appreciative coverage in assorted media.
Alison began by talking about the risks of the recent surge in interest
in foraging, which could easily have negative impacts on wild species.
Fine autumnal food
There was plenty of fine autumnal food, though perhaps wisely, no mushroom dishes. In a fascinating introduction to the subject, Alison ranged across the difference between knowledge about fungi in Europe and Australia, the fact that because of its size and geographic and climate variations, Australia has one of the greatest diversity of fungi of any part of the world – far more than Europe. Alison also spoke entertainingly of the mushroom inspectors known as the pilz kontroller that she had dealt with in Switzerland, where they are stationed in villages. She commented that they are highly trained people. You would go along with a collection of mushrooms and they would pull out the poisonous ones and send you home with the edible ones.
Fine autumnal food
There was plenty of fine autumnal food, though perhaps wisely, no mushroom dishes. In a fascinating introduction to the subject, Alison ranged across the difference between knowledge about fungi in Europe and Australia, the fact that because of its size and geographic and climate variations, Australia has one of the greatest diversity of fungi of any part of the world – far more than Europe. Alison also spoke entertainingly of the mushroom inspectors known as the pilz kontroller that she had dealt with in Switzerland, where they are stationed in villages. She commented that they are highly trained people. You would go along with a collection of mushrooms and they would pull out the poisonous ones and send you home with the edible ones.
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| Playing it safe - I stick to commercially grown Swiss Browns from the weekly Farmers Market |
In contrast, although Indigenous Australians have one of, if not the longest traditions of mushroom foraging in the world, many Australians may have inherited a tradition British view of fungus. According to Alison because mushrooms are so ephemeral — they appear and then they're gone — in Britain they were often associated with things that were considered negative, like crime and witchcraft. She noted that a common symptom of that attitude in Australia is the belief that unlike other countries, we have an overabundance of deadly species.
Poisonous or unpalatable
However, it is likely that only a small percentage of our fungi are poisonous – much more likely is that many are just not palatable. Ironically Australia’s deadliest mushroom – the deathcap or Amanita phalloides – was accidentally introduced from the Northern Hemisphere and first recorded in Australia in the 1960s.
Alison also touched on how much traditional Aboriginal knowledge of fungi still survives in communities. This part of the talk reminded me of the long tradition of community language workers who have spent generations maintaining and reviving Australia’s own languages – the ones spoken nowhere else in the world. Her discussion of traditional knowledge of fungi made me think of noted writer Bruce Pascoe, who is very active in the First Nations languages movement and on the committee of First Languages Australia, but who has now turned his focus to traditional Indigenous grains and grasses.
How not to poison yourself
Alison had some very useful tips to avoid poisoning yourself. She noted that if you do decide to forage, the most successful and safe are those who specialise and focus on only a few mushrooms of interest, rather than collecting wildly and indiscriminately, which maximises the risk of error.
I had to buy the book – even if I can’t screw up enough courage to forage again, I want to know more about this fascinating subject. When we were growing up, mushrooming – albeit for only the most common type – was part of our way of life but now none of us would dare hunt wild mushrooms again. Now this ancient tradition has come full circle as experimental chefs are rediscovering the pleasures of foraging once more.
The book is a worthy purchase. It’s published by CSIRO Publishing, which is the best place to order both Wild Mushrooming and The Allure of Fungi, and each has a RRP of $49.95
Poisonous or unpalatable
However, it is likely that only a small percentage of our fungi are poisonous – much more likely is that many are just not palatable. Ironically Australia’s deadliest mushroom – the deathcap or Amanita phalloides – was accidentally introduced from the Northern Hemisphere and first recorded in Australia in the 1960s.
Alison also touched on how much traditional Aboriginal knowledge of fungi still survives in communities. This part of the talk reminded me of the long tradition of community language workers who have spent generations maintaining and reviving Australia’s own languages – the ones spoken nowhere else in the world. Her discussion of traditional knowledge of fungi made me think of noted writer Bruce Pascoe, who is very active in the First Nations languages movement and on the committee of First Languages Australia, but who has now turned his focus to traditional Indigenous grains and grasses.
How not to poison yourself
Alison had some very useful tips to avoid poisoning yourself. She noted that if you do decide to forage, the most successful and safe are those who specialise and focus on only a few mushrooms of interest, rather than collecting wildly and indiscriminately, which maximises the risk of error.
I had to buy the book – even if I can’t screw up enough courage to forage again, I want to know more about this fascinating subject. When we were growing up, mushrooming – albeit for only the most common type – was part of our way of life but now none of us would dare hunt wild mushrooms again. Now this ancient tradition has come full circle as experimental chefs are rediscovering the pleasures of foraging once more.
The book is a worthy purchase. It’s published by CSIRO Publishing, which is the best place to order both Wild Mushrooming and The Allure of Fungi, and each has a RRP of $49.95
‘tableland’ on Facebook – life on the land and at the table
‘Life on the land and at the table, the companion Facebook site to this blog, for brief and topical snippets and vignettes about land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko’, 'tableland' on Facebook.
Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific.
‘Life on the land and at the table, the companion Facebook site to this blog, for brief and topical snippets and vignettes about land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko’, 'tableland' on Facebook.
Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific.
The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.
Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style
‘While
I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open.
It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the
midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their
favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to
the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some
lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local
businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has
been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the
creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to
enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with
style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.
Takeaway takeover – steering a course through an unfolding pandemic
‘Local fine dining restaurant, Pilot, is tucked away in the back corner of the Ainslie shops in a quiet suburb of North Canberra. Over the last five months, Pilot has steered a course through the unfolding pandemic, as the changing relationship between diners and the restaurant has mapped the meandering trail of the COVID-19 pandemic through lockdown and easing. We’d been to Pilot to sample their long Sunday lunch in late February before the world fell apart. Then the pandemic struck and the lockdown began. Stuck at home our minds turned to the fine dining of the new era – takeaway. Then in July, as the lockdown finally eased – at least for a while – we found our way back to Pilot’, Takeaway takeover – steering a course through an unfolding pandemic.
Takeaway takeover – steering a course through an unfolding pandemic
‘Local fine dining restaurant, Pilot, is tucked away in the back corner of the Ainslie shops in a quiet suburb of North Canberra. Over the last five months, Pilot has steered a course through the unfolding pandemic, as the changing relationship between diners and the restaurant has mapped the meandering trail of the COVID-19 pandemic through lockdown and easing. We’d been to Pilot to sample their long Sunday lunch in late February before the world fell apart. Then the pandemic struck and the lockdown began. Stuck at home our minds turned to the fine dining of the new era – takeaway. Then in July, as the lockdown finally eased – at least for a while – we found our way back to Pilot’, Takeaway takeover – steering a course through an unfolding pandemic.
Flour and eggs and happiness
‘The Easter holiday
was fast approaching and due to the pandemic lockdown, no-one could go
away. For years I'd been saying about Easter that it's a great time to
go away, but it's also a great time to stay home. What better way to
enjoy it than by marking a return to a habit from decades past – making
my own pasta’, Flour and eggs and happiness.
Unexpected surprises in unusual places – Bar Rochford ticks many boxes
‘One
of the pleasures of living in a city is the unexpected surprises in
unusual places. Tucked up at the top of a stairway in the Melbourne
Building in the heart of Canberra is a terrific bar that ticks many
boxes. Whenever I go to Bar Rochford I feel happy. It has interesting
wine and thoughtful food, so I’ve been there quite a few times – and I’m
likely to go many more times’, Unexpected surprises in unusual places – Bar Rochford ticks many boxes.
Better and better – a cold night in at Pulp Kitchen
‘After a regional road tour through Victoria to Adelaide and back – packed with produce of every kind – the best recipe for happiness at home was a quiet spot in the corner at local restaurant Pulp Kitchen, enjoying a very different meal in a very different restaurant, after almost two weeks of very good – and sometimes exceptional – food and drink’, Better and better – a cold night in at Pulp Kitchen.
Dispatches from the Royal Mail – Wickens restaurant delivers the goods
‘I’ve always been interested in the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, at the
southern tip of the Grampians, and its varied offerings. It’s been one
of Australia’s best regional restaurants for many years and I am
particularly attracted by regional restaurants. I took advantage of a
regional road tour through Victoria to Adelaide to update my first visit
from several years before. In every respect the experience was
worthwhile. The attention to detail and focused application was
apparent, from the signature restaurant to the wider range of services
it provides’, Dispatches from the Royal Mail – Wickens restaurant delivers the goods.Travelling overseas in your own country – Austrian winter lunches in the high country
‘The pay off for cold Canberra mornings is that with no cloud during the night the days are clear and blue and brilliant. That’s when Canberra comes into its own. That’s the time to enjoy a long luxurious lunch with friends. The ACT is so tiny that is doesn’t take long before you have to cross the border in your quest for food and drink and spectacular landscapes. These outings are the slices of life in between the restaurants and bars where you go out in public. This is where the farmers markets and the home-grown produce and the local vintages come together in the privacy of your own home. With moments like this, even winter starts to look attractive’, Travelling overseas in your own country – Austrian winter lunches in the high country.
Eating out in the cold country – Grazing at Gundaroo
‘In winter your mind turns to food - well, it turns there anytime, but perhaps more so in winter. I can’t remember how many years I have been coming to Grazing restaurant, in the tiny historic town of Gundaroo, just outside Canberra – it seems like forever. In the time I’ve been coming here Prime Ministers have risen and fallen, Governments have teetered, illusions have shattered. On a Sunday recently, I ventured out from the cold of approaching winter on a clear, blue day and went there one more time for food, wine and firewood. I wasn’t disappointed’, Eating out in the cold country – Grazing at Gundaroo.
Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back
‘I seem to spend a lot of time in the small Italian and Sons restaurant in hipster heaven in downtown Braddon, with its equally small bar annexe, Bacaro, at the rear. It’s so good and so pleasant that it’s easy to forget the other parts of the Italian empire. The flagship restaurant, Mezzalira, is across the the city, near the National University. It’s in the fabulous but somewhat neglected though stately Melbourne Building, with its Italianate arches and colonnades. I sometimes think that if suddenly the world was about to end (a bit like contemporary times) and I was offered the choice of only one cuisine until the crunch, I’d have to choose Italian. That way I could die happy,’ Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back.
Ester – the sweet smell of success
‘Because the high country is adjacent to the low country, it takes only three hours to drive from the nation’s capital to the nation’s financial capital. In the early to mid 1990s Chippendale in Sydney was a suburb you travelled through to get somewhere else. All that is changing in a big way, with plenty there to explore. A sure sign of these times is eatery Ester, a restaurant that reflects the focus of its name on the science of food with some intrepid experiments in the culinary arts’, Ester – the sweet smell of success.
In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts
‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely – in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.
We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.
A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.
Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.
Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.
Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from
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