'There seems to be an umbilical cord connecting Canberra to the South Coast of New South Wales. In many ways it’s not surprising.'
Many Canberrans have ‘shacks’ (aka holiday houses) somewhere amongst a string of South Coast townships. Many years ago, when I lived in Sydney, I stayed in a campground at Racecourse Beach and was astounded at the high proportion of ACT number plates – though now I live in Canberra I’m no longer surprised.
Despite the main road through Milton also being the main highway, it is a charming and attractive town that keeps drawing us back.
Quite a while back we visited Mollymook for the first time in ages. I was struck by how attractive it is. It seemed to be more spruced up than I remember – but perhaps that was just post-pandemic money flowing in as more and more people turned basic holiday shacks into elaborate – and permament – homes. There’s no denying the rash of Air BnB, as there is everywhere, which boosts temporary holidayers over serious residents. Then we went to Milton, one of my favourite towns on the South Coast.
Cultural institutions at Milton - the library and theatre.
The Pavilion - smooth sailing
We really like Bannisters Pavilion, the place we stayed at Mollymook. It was much less expensive than the main Rick Stein facility Bannisters Lodge just up the hill, but it was more recent and had a different feel. We had a package special which included a two course dinner at Rick Stein's Bannisters Lodge restaurant and breakfasts at the Pavilion. On the other nights we ate at the Pavilion. Unfortunately the dinner at Rick Stein's was plagued by delays and inconsistent service – perhaps the result of new staff and systems in those times of shortage – because we'd eaten there before and really enjoyed it (and in his Padstow restaurant in Cornwall as well).
Looking up to The Rooftop at Bannisters Pavilion - hopefully my balcony bamboo will reach these stellar heights.
Apart from disappointment with a couple of dishes, the food was very enjoyable. The staff were good about it and we were sure it was only temporary. The experience didn't stop us going back to our room afterwards and catching up on Rick Stein episodes.
'In contrast the Pavilion was smooth sailing, comfortable and effortless. The breakfasts were excellent – they'd resisted the temptation to have a buffet and the evening meals were pleasurable and leisurely.'
In contrast the Pavilion was smooth sailing, comfortable and effortless. The breakfasts were excellent – they'd resisted the temptation to have a buffet and the evening meals were pleasurable and leisurely. The one thing that would have improved it would be a wider range of light, healthier meals on offer. Rooms were terrific. We decided we'd definitely be staying there again.
Return to the Rooftop bar and grill
We had decided we really liked Bannisters Pavilion a lot, so we returned recently. We had dinner and an a la carte breakfast in The Rooftop, the bar and grill on top of the hotel, and as always sprawled out in the welcoming rooms below. I could even have had a bath if I’d wanted.
Rocking by the pool on a cool winter night.
On our final night we had vouchers for cocktails by the pool up at the more expensive Rick Stein resort. Ironically while we’ve eaten in his restaurant there twice – and in his original restaurant in Padstow in Cornwall – we’ve never stayed there. Before he bought the hotel and totally renovated it, we stayed in its previous incarnation, a 60s motel surrounded by feral rabbits.
This night was a Friday, a day we are not usually there and after our cocktails we had an excellent pizza, one of those where the base is so good and puffy that it wouldn’t really matter what was on top – even though that was terrific too. The joint was was rocking, with two musicians reminding us why live music is without peer. We were rocking, too, though also shivering. Even on the South Coast, clear winter skies can be cold.
© Stephen Cassidy 2025
See also
Finding myself on Google Maps
‘On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy’, Finding myself on Google Maps.Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital
Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale
‘Recently we finally made it to the tiny little restaurant in Yarralumla called Minima, where we sat at the counter and tried to avoid distracting the chefs as they got on with it. I suppose being a chef is like being a nurse – long and unusual hours, lots of stress and tight deadlines, difficult customers and high expectations. Avoiding distraction we ordered and then the world suddenly burst into colour’, Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital.
Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel
‘On a recent visit to the South Coast we drove to the tiny and attractive town of Milton for lunch. Milton is perched on a thin ridge, with hills and views either side and the escarpment towering in the distance. Unfortunately, like Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands – another favourite place – the main street is also the main highway. Cross if you dare. Once across, though, it's a place well worth spending time in’, Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel.
Grazing at Grazing
‘I don’t know how long I have been coming to eat at Grazing – too long to remember, probably. Who can forget the fabulous fish pie that was a staple for so long? On this visit, after a considerable absence, we took a couple of visiting Melbourne friends there to sit near the open fire in a Canberra winter. It has always been good, but on this visit it seemed to be even better’, Grazing at Grazing.
‘Back in the Southern Highlands after some time, we rediscovered – yet again – all the things we have liked so much about that part of the country over the last 25 years. We visited Bistro Sociale – in the Berida Hotel – for dinner on our first night. We’ve been there many times and the place just gets better and better. I had two dishes that were exceptional – the spatchcock and the chocolate fondant. I realised that when I late ate there in January I had picked the same main course – because it is extremely good and interesting. I love spatchcock and they do one of the best’, Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale.
Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy
On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood’, Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy.Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.
Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital
We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.
A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.
Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.
Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.
Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.
‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.
The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.
Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific.
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific.
The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.
Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style
‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms.
The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.
We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.
A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.
Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.
Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.
Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.
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