Grazing at Grazing

I don’t know how long I have been coming to eat at Grazing – too long to remember, probably. Who can forget the fabulous fish pie that was a staple for so long? On this visit, after a considerable absence, we took a couple of visiting Melbourne friends there to sit near the open fire in a Canberra winter. It has always been good, but on this visit it seemed to be even better.

Who cooks rabbit anymore?

When we had been seated near the fire at Grazing and I heard the list of specials I was impressed. There was a rabbit pie – who cooks rabbit anymore? I haven’t eaten rabbit since I lived in Adelaide, which counting back means I haven’t eaten rabbit for almost 30 years.

 

Out of control rabbits for a classically controlled pie.

Given the out of control number that seem to be running everywhere, especially in Canberra, we should probably be eating rabbit every second day, just like in the 1930s. Needless to say the rabbit pie was exceptional.

 Prawns on brioche jumps in the mouth.

The other new feature was a series of small appetisers, what the French call amuse bouche. One of our guests tried the prawns on a brioche bun and was suitably impressed.

  A definite success - Gundagai lamb rump with anchovy butter, celeriac, braised cavalo nero and olives. Clever accompaniments lifted the excellent lamb to a different level.

I don’t normally order lamb because in some restaurants it can be a bit disappointing, but for the main meal I had a Gundagai lamb rump with anchovy butter, celeriac, braised cavalo nero and olives and that was a definite success. Clever accompaniments lifted the excellent lamb to a different level.

All in all, all our many and varied dishes – all first-rate– managed to keep us all well content until our next visit. We'll be back again in only a couple of weeks, so we can repeat the experience - or enhance it.

© Stephen Cassidy 2025

See also

Finding myself on Google Maps

‘On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy’, Finding myself on Google Maps.

Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion

‘A few weeks ago we headed down the Coast for a short break. Once again we found ourselves at Bannisters Pavilion – the cheap version of Rick Stein’s Bannisters Lodge at Mollymook, a bit more distant from the sea, but a bit closer to the ever-enticing town of Milton. In winter Bannisters have sales because no-one wants to go to the seaside – except those who live there – and we love a bargain’, Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion.

Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale

‘Back in the Southern Highlands after some time, we rediscovered – yet again – all the things we have liked so much about that part of the country over the last 25 years. We visited Bistro Sociale – in the Berida Hotel – for dinner on our first night. We’ve been there many times and the place just gets better and better. I had two dishes that were exceptional – the spatchcock and the chocolate fondant. I realised that when I late ate there in January I had picked the same main course – because it is extremely good and interesting. I love spatchcock and they do one of the best’, Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale.

Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy

On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood’, Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy.

Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.

Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital

‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.

The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.

Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific. 

 

The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney. 

 

Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style

‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.

In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms. 

 The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.

 

 

Eating out in the cold country – Grazing at Gundaroo

I can’t remember how many years I have been coming to this restaurant, in the tiny historic town of Gundaroo, just outside Canberra – it seems like forever. In the time I’ve been coming here Prime Ministers have risen and fallen, Governments have teetered, illusions have shattered.

On the ground here in the country, they’ve built extensions, poured wine by the bucket and served food by the platter – and burned a tonne or two of firewood as well. Too many of the people I’ve enjoyed meals with here are no longer around to remember them but, thankfully, there’s enough of us to be getting on with.

Removing layers of clothing and adding layers of food
After settling down and removing a few layers of clothing I started with a local beer. All the tap beers are brewed by Canberra brewer Christoph Zierholz, whose brewery has been producing beer in Canberra since 2005. I settled for a glass of the Hopmeister, which has a slightly darker colour than many and a full flavour. Others at the table settled for a good alternative – a few glasses of the Wily Trout Blanc de Blanc sparkling before moving onto a bottle of the 2016 Nick O’Leary Riesling, with a seriously dry demeanour.

The main entrance of the long-established Royal Hotel where Grazing Restaurant now resides.

On previous visits I’ve found it hard to tear myself away from their seafood pie, which used to be served a as a main course. It could be challenging because it’s quite rich. However, they have now wisely reinvented it as an entrée. It’s a seafood pithivier of scallops, mussels and snapper, with creamed leek and smoked oyster emulsion. I think it’s even better as an entrée. I particularly like the fact that, even with the entrée they don’t stint on the pastry – a pie covered in pastry on the top only is not a pie at all to my mind. Quite a few of us had the pie.

Another of our party had the fennel and sugar cured Spanish Mackerel, with duck prosciutto, almond and olive, and pronounced it very good. Probably the least satisfying was the breaded Crookwell lamb and kidney croquette, with apple slaw, Bredbo black garlic and hollandaise, with the comment that the kidney was not really identifiable. That would be a plus for me, since I’m not a big fan of kidney and thought the dish looked like a darker version of a fish finger, anyway.

A big day in the country
They must have already had a big day because the braised ox cheek, with walnut, Roquefort, carrot, anchovy and spinach had run out entirely. Instead they were offering a lamb Scotch fillet with fennel and various other things I can't remember. Several of our party opted for that – though they were disappointed because although it was very flavoursome, it was slightly stringy in texture.

There was one serving left of an intriguing dish, the pressing of duck, with parsnip toffee, pickled rhubarb and pork crackle but as interesting as it sounded, we had other fish to fry. Most of the rest of us chose the organic boned and rolled whole roast hen, with chestnuts, cabbage, bacon and parsnips, which though a little too salty, was a triumph. The fish pie followed by the chicken was a complete success, so I was happy.

A couple of us felt like red wine, so we shared a bottle of 2015 Pinot Noir from Lerida Estate at Lake George, which was excellent with the chicken.

Dessert and Muscat rounding out the day
I almost wasn’t going to have dessert but I was strong-armed into it so my dining companion could try my dish. I had the burnt honey cream, with ginger and orange blossom poached pear, Iron Bark honey jelly and candied pastry, which I found very enjoyable.

Others had the apple splice, which according to the menu was Granny Smith apple and tarragon sorbet, Earl Grey infused ice cream, apple ‘salsa’ and meringue wafers – except that the Earl Grey had disappeared and it had become strawberry ice cream instead and the tarragon sorbet had gone missing in action as well. Despite this it was also pronounced a success – though lingering sadness at the missed opportunity to try the distinctive flavour of Earl Grey was evident.

One lone adventurer had the caramel salted hazelnut, with frozen caramel custard, salted hazelnut praline, chocolate parfait, chocolate aero and cocoa fragments, and gave it the thumbs up.

With my dessert I had a glass of the Gundog Estate NV Muscat from Rutherglen in Victoria, while a fellow diner tried the Morris Tokay from the same region. Both were full of flavour and dark colour – quite different choices, but both enjoyable. I used to be very fond of Muscat when I lived in Adelaide many decades ago, but I haven’t had many since, so it was a memorable pleasure.

Gundog Estate has taken over the old building at the rear of Grazing, an annexe that has housed a string of smaller operations. We inspected it after lunch and it looked impressive, with a warm and cosy space for winter and a pleasing deck for warmer months.

Remembering and forgetting
One of the pitfalls of the food blogger is getting so caught up in enjoying the food and the fun of sitting around chatting with a lively group over fine food and drinks that you forget to take any photographs. It’s not embarrassment at taking photos of your food. I’ve long since got over that – after all, what better thing is there to photograph? The problem is just general neglect of photography – I think I’ve realised that you can’t be a part-time photographer, even at dinner.

In this case, some of the dishes, as well as being excellent, looked superb. The much enjoyed fish pie and rolled chicken shall, alas, forever remain invisible. However, the solution is to go there yourself, hunker down over an open fire or in a private room, savour the local beer and wine and see for yourself what the food tastes, smells, looks and feels like. It will make you happy.

See also

'tableland' on Facebook – life on the land and at the table

'Life on the land and at the table, the companion Facebook site to this blog, for brief and topical snippets and vignettes about land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko', 'tableland' on Facebook.

Catching up in the kitchen – Pulp Kitchen ups the ante
‘I have been here twice since it changed hands and the capable crew from Restaurant eightysix in Braddon took over this Ainslie favourite, tucked away down the side of the shops. Each time it has been very good and very enjoyable. I used to really like the previous incarnation of Pulp Kitchen and went there many times, but this is even better. I was catching up with a friend I hadn’t seen for many decades and it made for an excellent night in a buzzy, busy venue in the heart of the inner North’, Catching up in the kitchen – Pulp Kitchen delivers the goods.

Wine o’clock in downtown Moss Vale
‘I've always had a weak spot for Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands of NSW. I have been watching it slowly change over the decades since. The latest addition is a new and very funky bar, Wine Mosaic Lounge, combined with a wine vendor, Argyle Street Wine Merchant. Passing through, we stopped to sample it. We thought aloud ‘we must come back here soon’ – and we will’, Wine o’clock in downtown Moss Vale.

Big city myopia, regional cities and cool capitals – is Canberra cool and who really cares?
'I’ve been entertained by the heated discussion about whether Canberra is cool or not. The question of regional cities and cool capitals is one that won’t go away. Instead of endlessly comparing cities – Melbourne versus Sydney, Melbourne versus Canberra, Canberra versus Queanbeyan, Devonport versus East Devonport (as we did in my youth) – to gauge their degree of cool or of dismal, perhaps we’d be better seeking out the interesting places and features that lurk in every city, town and locality', Big city myopia, regional cities and cool capitals – is Canberra cool and who really cares?

Travelling overseas in your own country ­– Austrian winter lunches in the high country
‘The pay off for cold Canberra mornings is that with no cloud during the night the days are clear and blue and brilliant. That’s when Canberra comes into its own. That’s the time to enjoy a long luxurious lunch with friends. The ACT is so tiny that is doesn’t take long before you have to cross the border in your quest for food and drink and spectacular landscapes. These outings are the slices of life in between the restaurants and bars where you go out in public. This is where the farmers markets and the home-grown produce and the local vintages come together in the privacy of your own home. With moments like this, even winter starts to look attractive’, Travelling overseas in your own country ­– Austrian winter lunches in the high country.

Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back
‘I seem to spend a lot of time in the small Italian and Sons restaurant in hipster heaven in downtown Braddon, with its equally small bar annexe, Bacaro, at the rear. It’s so good and so pleasant that it’s easy to forget the other parts of the Italian empire. The flagship restaurant, Mezzalira, is across the the city, near the National University. It’s in the fabulous but somewhat neglected though stately Melbourne Building, with its Italianate arches and colonnades. I sometimes think that if suddenly the world was about to end (a bit like contemporary times) and I was offered the choice of only one cuisine until the crunch, I’d have to choose Italian. That way I could die happy,’ Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back.

Ester – the sweet smell of success
‘Because the high country is adjacent to the low country, it takes only three hours to drive from the nation’s capital to the nation’s financial capital. In the early to mid 1990s Chippendale in Sydney was a suburb you travelled through to get somewhere else. All that is changing in a big way, with plenty there to explore. A sure sign of these times is eatery Ester, a restaurant that reflects the focus of its name on the science of food with some intrepid experiments in the culinary arts’, Ester – the sweet smell of success.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii 
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Peas in a pod – food takes off
‘Pod Food is in the heart of the slightly ramshackle gardening and nursery hub of Canberra, Pialligo , adjacent to the burgeoning exercise in urban growth called Canberra Airport. It was always the place you went to get large pots and even larger apples. Pod Food was always good enough – but now it is something a whole lot more impressive. On a rainy Friday I entered through their marvellous cottage garden entrance way to sit on the covered and contained outside deck. The entrance to Pod Food, formerly part of an operating nursery, is the sort of garden I eventually want to have. It felt highly suitable sitting at the entrance to the Australian high country as the rain came down, drinking the fine product of another high region on the opposite side of the world’, Peas in a pod – food takes off.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Smoking for broke beside the Molongolo
‘Where the market gardens that supplied Canberra as far back as the 1820s used to be a small fortune has been spent turning 86 acres overlooking the Eastern end of Lake Burley Griffin into a superb regional restaurant, Pialligo Estate Farmhouse Restaurant. It made for a tremendous birthday lunch in a spacious airy and light space, full of exciting food treated well. I couldn’t take my eyes off the copper guttering and downpipes. I thought all the loose copper in the world had already been stolen but clearly it’s still available. It’s quite clear that even though work is still being finalised, when it is finished it will be a spectacular addition to the nation’s capital and the region’, Smoking for broke beside the Molongolo.

In praise of the Berra
‘When I first moved to Canberra, almost as an accidental intersection of geography and employment after the Sydney Olympics, I used to say “if you had lived in Sydney and one day you woke up and discovered you were in Canberra, you would think you had died.” Then I changed my mind. It took ten years but it was inevitable. Berrans are a hardy bunch – they can withstand the hot winds of summer and of Australia’s Parliament, the chill flurries from the Snowy Mountains and the chilling news of budget cuts. The Berra is half-way between everywhere’, In praise of the Berra.

Kale, coriander and chickens

I’ve eaten at Grazing, the restaurant settled in an 1865 pub in Gundaroo in the rolling tablelands outside Canberra, many times over several years. It’s always been very good – fresh, interesting local produce, often from their own extensive garden out the back, thoughtful food.

Today the air  was clear and sharp, a fine mid-winter day, a good day to eat and drink wine and to relax over a long lunch with friends you haven’t seen for a while. The food matched the day – I think it was the best I’ve ever had here.

I had three very different choices. Usually I’m pretty happy if two of three work out well but all three clicked. I started with roasted pumpkin, pine nut and goats cheese fritters with almond aioli, garden rocket salad and caramelised tomato chutney – simple but effective. I’m always a soft touch for a good chutney or pickle, a pie, dumplings or noodles – simple food made marvellous by good produce, better technique and, above all, good imagination.