Something old, something new – a recent addition makes our night

One of the things I like about Australia’s national capital is that it didn’t completely succumb to the blight of over-sized malls – another baleful gift we’ve inherited from America. In it’s older inner-suburban centres you will still find tiny shopping centres that face out to the real world. The problem is that many of them are fading and distinctly tired. Yet often when a single new business springs open, it can revitalise the whole centre.

At the Kingston shops (as opposed to the Kingston Foreshore which is much more recent, but shares the same problem of variable offerings) a new wine bar has opened. Tintino just turned one year old (who knew, we only discovered it by chance a month or so ago). After numerous visits to drink wine – and once to also eat a very fine snack, a duck liver parfait with pumpkin seed crumpet, pickled walnut and fig ketchup – last night we had a full meal there.

John Dory in buttermilk and fennel at the front and duck with Puy lentils at the rear.

Propped at the bar or looking dreamily out the front window
It’s not a big place – we were propped up at the bar, but that suited us. You can also sit at lower tables if you are a slightly bigger group or look dreamily out the front window from the ledge seat if you are quick. Having been seated you can concentrate on the food and wine – and mighty fine both are.

'We were sitting right next to where all the dishes came out so we had a preview of virtually everything – something that made decisions difficult.'

Propped on our stools we started with smoked mackerel on a potato and dill cake to whet our appetite. It was an excellent start – smoked fish and potatoes always pair exceptionally. With that we had a pair of dry gin martinis with olives and then I had a glass of Michael Hall Roussanne from the Barossa Valley – did I mention the joint has a very interesting an varied wine list, both Australian and from overseas?

Smoked mackerel on a potato and dill cake to whet our appetite.

Preview of virtually everything
We were sitting right next to where all the dishes came out so we had a preview of virtually everything – something that made decisions difficult. There was more choice than snacks at Christmas, but we opted for John Dory in buttermilk and fennel and duck with Puy lentils and local truffle. On the side we had Brussels sprouts with yuzu, hot honey and mimolette (a French cow milk cheese).

For accompaniments in a glass we ran the gamut of a Camino de Navaherreros Garnacha from Madrid, a Margan Breaking Ground Barbera from the Hunter Valley and a Des Grandes Espérances La Java Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire – I'm not really a wine buff, just curious, but that’s a very good range to choose from.

'It also has outside tables, so in summer (not now, Canberra is freezing) it will be a good place to also sit outdoors – if you can drag yourself away from the very fine, perhaps perfect fitout inside.'

To complete the evening we ventured to share a dessert, a sourdough toast icecream with chocolate, malt and coffee. Despite initially refusing to believe something called that even existed, I have to say it was excellent.

This new-ish place is a fine addition to Kingston and it has already become a local haunt and clearly not just for us. It also has outside tables, so in summer (not now, Canberra is freezing) it will be a good place to also sit outdoors – if you can drag yourself away from the very fine, perhaps perfect fitout inside.

© Stephen Cassidy 2026

See also

Taste of Lyon in the capital – Les Bistronomes starts from a high mark

'I can’t believe we haven’t been to Les Bistronomes, a fine French restaurant, since it moved from Braddon to Campbell years ago. The old location still remains an empty shell covered in graffiti. It used to be one of our favourites and recently we were reminded why. If anything its food has become even better and in a French restaurant you’re already starting from a high benchmark. As I walked in from the heat outside I noticed several dishes already out on the tables I walked past and thought the food looked good’, Taste of Lyon in the capital – Les Bistronomes starts from a high mark.

'travelling light' – the full and final set in my suite of social media blogs

'Today I launch 'travelling light', a final, fifth blog to add to my suite of four blogs on Blogger. For 16 years I published almost 300 articles there, with some articles posted on earlier outlets for closer to 22 years. 'travelling light' is different to all of these – not serious articles about creativity and culture, not humorous snippets, not creative and travel writing and not articles about food and cooking. It is a personal view of the light – and sometimes heavier – matters that come up in daily life and make me sit up and take notice, whether travelling or staying put', 'travelling light' – the full and final set in my suite of social media blogs.

It is right to rebel

'Rebel Rebel is a restaurant that has always offered interesting, pleasant surprises. This was the first place I discovered – many years ago – that peaches weren’t only for dessert. Coming here this time was a surprising coincidence. I’d been at the cinema and was ready for good food. I wasn't disappointed and it was an enjoyable quick set of dishes. To top it off it, we'd been reminded of Rebel Rebel on a quick excursion down to the South Coast the previous week'. It is right to rebel.

Eyes bigger than your belly – smelling the coffee by the waves

'It doesn't seem to matter what direction you come from, down at the South Coast you always seem to end up at this special spot in Lilli Pilli – Three66 Espresso Bar. It might be for coffee, for lunch, for breakfast, either to take away or to have there next to the quiet waves of Mosquito Bay. It's a different world to Canberra and plenty of Canberra residents make it their second home (or often their first home, once they retire)', Eyes bigger than your belly – smelling the coffee by the waves.

Popping in at Edgars Inn

‘A few years back I started to post reviews to Google Maps. It was just for fun and because it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make your everyday life worthwhile. I recently heard from Google that the photos with my reviews had been viewed over 460,000 times – who would ever have guessed? It was ironic then that I had never mentioned the place I go to most of all – Edgars Inn at Ainslie shops in Canberra’, Popping in at Edgars Inn.

Even better in real life – the magnificent Maison Jazey

'I don't know how I found tiny Semur-en-Auxois, and then the magnificent Maison Jazey, from Australia months before we went there, but I'm glad I did. It's one of those places that looks fabulous online, and then turns out to be even better in real life,’ Even better in real life – the magnificent Maison Jazey.

Echoes of Tasmania on the island to the North – chilling out in summer in the Snowy Mountains
‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a location a mere two and a half hours from Canberra. The Snowy Mountains are one of the best reasons to live in the national capital. We've been there more times than I can count. I've reviewed some of our favourite places, but have yet to add a few more, even though we've been to them numerous times. Thredbo is an obvious drawcard, but there are many lesser known spots, like Tinkersfield, on the way to Thredbo, for accommodation, and Wild Brumby Schnapps Distillery for terrific food and drink (some of which they distill themselves). It's as close to the centre of Tasmania, where I grew up, between Cradle Mountain National Park and Lake St Clair,’ Echoes of Tasmania on the island to the North – chilling out in summer in the Snowy Mountains.

A Chef’s Tour – roaming Bangkok foodie spots

‘Only the third Asian city I have been to. one thing you can say about Bangkok – it never seems to stop. It’s sprawling, crowded, busy and boisterous – and at times as you encounter the traffic, seemingly life-threatening. We wouldn’t normally have chosen to come to Bangkok, but our flights worked through the city, so it was an unexpected bonus’, A Chef’s Tour – roaming Bangkok foodie spots.

The short road to Sydney – out and about in Surry Hills and Bowral
‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visited and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about Sydney and the Southern Highlands. Given Canberra is increasingly moving closer to Sydney – it used to take four and a half hours to drive to Sydney and it’s now down to three hours, door to door, we have developed a habit of recent decades of driving to Sydney for wild times (more recently, mild times), followed by a wind down in the Southern Highlands on the way home. This means that posts about both places often sit well together, even of the visits are always at the same time’, The short road to Sydney – out and about in Surry Hills and Bowral.

Moss Manor – on a rise above Moss Vale

‘Continuing the series of posts about places we've visits and reviewed on Google Maps, but which have never been posted to this blog, my next post is about a relatively new place to stay in Moss Vale. Moss Manor was a newly-discovered place for us, even though we have been visiting Moss Vale for years. It only opened the year before we visited. It was very impressive and a great addition to the Southern Highlands. We had a fantastic time utilising a special offer on a three day break from daily life. Even though, now they are established, the special offer seems to have ceased and we can't afford to go back, it's extremely high quality and highly recommended’, Moss Manor – on a rise above Moss Vale.

Short note: wine bars, wineries and restaurants I have known...
‘Over the years I have posted many short reviews to Google Maps, to the point where now I have had over 30,000 views of my reviews and over 460,000 views of the accompanying photos – and they keep on growing. I realised that many of these had never been posted to this blog, which is my main outlet for news about food, drink, produce and places to visit’, Short note: wine bars, wineries and restaurants I have known...

Finding myself on Google Maps

‘On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy.’, Finding myself on Google Maps.

Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital

‘Recently we finally made it to the tiny little restaurant in Yarralumla called Minima, where we sat at the counter and tried to avoid distracting the chefs as they got on with it. I suppose being a chef is like being a nurse – long and unusual hours, lots of stress and tight deadlines, difficult customers and high expectations. Avoiding distraction we ordered and then the world suddenly burst into colour’, Leaning towards Asia on a rainy night in the nation’s capital.

Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel 

‘On a recent visit to the South Coast we drove to the tiny and attractive town of Milton for lunch. Milton is perched on a thin ridge, with hills and views either side and the escarpment towering in the distance. Unfortunately, like Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands – another favourite place – the main street is also the main highway. Cross if you dare. Once across, though, it's a place well worth spending time in’, Very dangerous ales at the Milton Hotel.

Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion

‘A few weeks ago we headed down the Coast for a short break. Once again we found ourselves at Bannisters Pavilion – the cheap version of Rick Stein’s Bannisters Lodge at Mollymook, a bit more distant from the sea, but a bit closer to the ever-enticing town of Milton. In winter Bannisters have sales because no-one wants to go to the seaside – except those who live there – and we love a bargain’, Washed up on the shore – on the roof at Bannisters Pavilion.

Grazing at Grazing 

‘I don’t know how long I have been coming to eat at Grazing – too long to remember, probably. Who can forget the fabulous fish pie that was a staple for so long? On this visit, after a considerable absence, we took a couple of visiting Melbourne friends there to sit near the open fire in a Canberra winter. It has always been good, but on this visit it seemed to be even better’, Grazing at Grazing.

Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale

‘Back in the Southern Highlands after some time, we rediscovered – yet again – all the things we have liked so much about that part of the country over the last 25 years. We visited Bistro Sociale – in the Berida Hotel – for dinner on our first night. We’ve been there many times and the place just gets better and better. I had two dishes that were exceptional – the spatchcock and the chocolate fondant. I realised that when I late ate there in January I had picked the same main course – because it is extremely good and interesting. I love spatchcock and they do one of the best’, Being anti-social at Bistro Sociale.

Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy

On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood’, Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy.

Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.

Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital

‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.

The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.

Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific. 

 

The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney. 

 

Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style

‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.

In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms. 

 The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.