Walking Australia Street for a taste of Italy

On a mercy dash to Sydney at short notice to pick up an injured friend recuperating on the Central Coast, we decided to make the most of our unexpected trip and sample the latest Sydney had to offer. Picking up any shopping we needed was out of the question due to the NSW Government’s vote-trawling decision to extend retail closing hours from 1 pm to midnight, but restaurants were definitely open and we managed to pick one of the most interesting in the ‘hood.

A few nights ago we walked the length of Australia Street, from Annandale to Newtown, to dine at a fabulous new restaurant, Osteria Mucca, that we discovered almost by accident. Australia Street is very long – given the width of the continent, it's probably well named.

Osteria Mucca was pumping on an Anzac Day evening.

When you no longer live in Sydney and visits are several months apart, it’s hard to keep up with all the new places that open. It’s also difficult to get too excited by many restaurants nowadays as rising costs shrink the experience of eating out or make it much more expensive. (Footnote: we were so impressed first time around that on a subsequent visit to Sydney, we went back – see the update at the end of this article).

Making an occasion of it
The restaurant is not cheap – is anything in inner-city Sydney cheap – but as I’ve said before, it’s better to make an occasion of it and eat out less frequently and enjoy it when you do. So many good restaurants have closed lately, due to the costs involved, that we have to make the most of those that are terrific and still with us. In the heart of Sydney I should imagine that rents alone must be pretty crippling.

White napkins, hand-made lace doilies and glorious tiles.

‘The restaurant is in a former butchers shop – and it’s a pretty spectacular venue. It’s all white napkins, hand-made lace doilies and glorious tiles – very Italian – and the staff making it all work were great.’

On a recent regional road trip, a few weeks back we had dinner at renowned Melbourne restaurant Cutler. Both the space and the food were great, but to my mind Osteria Mucca was more exciting. The restaurant is in a former butchers shop – and it’s a pretty spectacular venue. It’s all white napkins, hand-made lace doilies and glorious tiles – very Italian – and the staff making it all work were great.

Impeccable hand-made pasta
We started with a couple of traditional dry martinis to celebrate having got there and then had raw South Australia kingfish with lemon and rosemary. After that we had impeccable hand-made pasta, one spaghetti with prawns, lemon and bottarga and one gnocchi filled with a mix of potato and their own home-made ricotta, coated with a Gorgonzola sauce. It could have been too rich, but it was spot on.

Impeccable hand-made pasta.

‘It brought home two culinary truths – if a sauce is worth making, it's worth eating, and you can’t get away from the importance of salad – it's not just an accompaniment.’

It brought home two culinary truths – if a sauce is worth making, it's worth eating, and you can’t get away from the importance of salad – it's not just an accompaniment. The side salad of mixed leaves we had was superb – that’s what radicchio was made for. I could have eaten it on its own.

The wines we drank to accompany the meals were mainly Italian and very enjoyable as well –a Sicilian Grillo, a Chardonnay blend, a Montepulciano and a Vin Santo to finish off with a cassata dessert – very different to the cassata I grew up with. All in all it was an excellent night and I’d happily visit again. We’ve recommended it to all our Sydney friends.

Footnote

A quick update on our earlier visit. 

We were in Sydney again so we, of course, went back to the glorious Osteria Mucca in Australia Street, Newtown to catch up with a friend over dinner. We were staying in Surry Hills , so we took the trains and trams all the way. It was just like our last visit to Paris – criss-crossing the city on the rails, public transport rules OK.

 

A simple dish of green asparagus, egg, herbs and capers was sublime.

On this second visit, it was all great and I was reminded how much I like the space. The restaurant often has Italian dishes I don't usually see elsewhere and, given how many terrific Italian restaurants there are in Australia, that's saying something. We were there on a Tuesday night, but the place was buzzing overtime. 

The small introductory dishes were excellent – a simple dish of green asparagus, egg, herbs and capers was sublime. We had to have the gnudi again, gnocchi with their own house-made ricotta filling in a brown butter and sage sauce – so simple but so perfect. 

Pappardelle with duck – my favourite pasta, but all too often served with lamb, which makes it far too rich – this was perfect.

Above all, I was impressed by the pappardelle with duck. I have always loved this pasta, but all too often it is served with lamb, which makes it far too rich – this was perfect. To round it off once again, the mixed leaf salad was unbroken leaves of lettuce and radicchio, slightly bitter and crunchy with a subtle dressing. The desserts looked great, but who could fit them in after all that. The service matched the food, so it was another top-notch night.

© Stephen Cassidy 2025

See also

Finding myself on Google Maps

‘On my blog, tableland, described as: Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, I publish articles about food produce and wine, travel and exceptional places I’ve stayed. The blog is the longer version. Some years back I started to post shorter versions of these articles as reviews to Google Maps. It was a fun thing to do, I enjoyed writing about places I had liked and it’s good to acknowledge the local businesses that help make our everyday life worthwhile. When I last checked I found I now have 31 reviews with 47 photos and, according to Google, at last count views of the photos totalled 442,923 – crazy’, Finding myself on Google Maps.

Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria
‘Now not one, but two, new restaurants have opened perched high on Red Hill above the nation’s capital, we managed to visit and try both. First the fine-dining restaurant, Lunetta and then the more casual space, Lunetta Trattoria. Both are well-designed and well-presented venues, worthy of their lofty status above the city,’ Upstairs and downstairs – sampling the ground floor pleasures of Lunetta Trattoria.

Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital

‘The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location’, Perched on Red Hill – fine dining above the lights of the capital.

The island to the North – the islands to the North East
‘The awkward relationship between Tasmania and the island to the North is not the only clumsy relationship between islands in this part of the world. The history of the ties between the island to the North and the islands of the Pacific is even more troubled’, The island to the North – the islands to the North East.

Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific
‘Our near neighbours in the vast Pacific are often overlooked by Australia in its slavish focus on America, Britain and Europe. Yet this is our own backyard. The lack of knowledge has ranged across many aspects of the culture and history of the Pacific, including its culinary traditions. Yet, behind the scenes over more than a decade, a culinary revolution has been underway. This is the story of New Zealand chef, Robert Oliver, his fascination with the traditional food of the Pacific Islands, and an internationally award-winning cookbook, described as a ‘culinary love letter from a smattering of islands in the South Pacific’, which has developed a life of its own’, Food and culture in the neighbourhood – culinary love letter from the South Pacific. 

 

The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney. 

 

Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style

‘While I was in the city recently I noticed that Raku restaurant was open. It’s an old favourite and we’d looked at takeaway from there in the midst of the first lockdown, when everyone was ordering from their favourite locals to help keep them afloat. However, we hadn’t been to the restaurant since the pandemic struck. Since we needed to grab some lunch, we thought why not go there and support one of our local businesses while the coast is clear since the hospitality sector has been the only one to be harder hit by the pandemic shutdown than the creative sector. A stream of Japanese dishes seemed a suitable way to enjoy the charm of a local restaurant that serves up seafood with style’, Returning to the city while the coast is clear – Raku serves up Japanese seafood with style.

In search of wild mushrooms
‘Growing up in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, foraging for wild mushrooms was a regular part of life. Now living in Canberra, a landscape markedly similar to where I grew up, mushrooms have an altogether more deadly reputation. However, it all comes down to specialist knowledge about the subject, as I discovered on a chilly evening with one of Canberra’s mushrooming experts’, In search of wild mushrooms. 

 The Asian food century begins in Sydney
‘Almost ten years ago much fuss was made of the rapidly looming Asian Century, full of challenge and promise. I was working in the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet at the time as Director of the National Cultural Policy Task Force. The discussion White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century being developed at the same time seemed part of a similar big picture approach to Australia's future. Today it seems even more relevant than in those times of more strategic governments. In Sydney you get a much sharper sense of the Asian Century – and its culinary reflection, the Asian food century’, The Asian food century begins in Sydney.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven
‘On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. Then I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter’, A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from.

Perched on Red Hill - fine dining above the lights of the capital

The top of Red Hill in Canberra is a prime location. Over the years there have been a series of restaurants and cafes, but late last year a new player appeared and not one, but two, restaurants opened in the iconic heritage building perched above Canberra. All in all, Lunetta marks a welcome addition to Canberra dining and finally a return of a fine restaurant to the premium Red Hill location.

Having recently moved to the Southside of Canberra, we were very excited when Lunetta opened its doors atop Red Hill late last year. In fact what opened was both a fine dining restaurant and below it a trattoria, so we were spoiled for choice. We’d last eaten there what seemed a lifetime ago, when it had been On Red restaurant, set up by the chef who previously ran a fabulous kitchen at Grazing at Gundaroo (a restaurant still going strong). This week we finally went to the upstairs restaurant for a special occasion. 

Ravioli with roasted garlic honey butter, potato, pecorino and ricotta

Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back

I seem to spend a lot of time in the small Italian and Sons restaurant in hipster heaven in downtown Braddon, with its equally small bar annexe, Bacaro, at the rear. It’s so good and so pleasant that it’s easy to forget the other parts of the Italian empire – Mezzalira and Da Rosario.

The flagship restaurant, Mezzalira, is across the the city from Italian and Sons, near the National University. It’s in the fabulous but somewhat neglected though stately Melbourne Building, with its Italianate arches and colonnades. Da Rosario is a hole in the wall attached to it, serving fine lunches, coffees and Italian pastries.

Mezzalira Ristorante - in the glorious though neglected Melbourne Building in the heart of Civic.

Last night my dinner companion and I joined some old friends (also long-term friends) to sample the wares of Mezzalira one more time. We hadn’t been for a while so I was excited to be seated on the corner of the Melbourne Building in the heart of Civic. We were feeling a bit peckish so while we made up our minds we had a plate of their signature rosemary focaccia bread with a side serve of Cerignola green and Taggiasche black olives ‘Schiacciate’ with sage, chilli and rosemary.

A bustling Friday night in hipster heaven

On a bustling Friday night in hipster heaven, I popped into my favourite Canberra restaurant, Italian and Sons, planning for little more than a quick bite to eat. I managed to get my favourite spot – when I’m not settled comfortably in Bacaro, the adjoining bar out the back, that is – sitting in the window, watching the action on the street. If here’s two of you you sit side by side which beats leaning across the width of a table to shout conversation amongst the floor to ceiling bare timber walls. I was back where I belong.

A place for a quiet, quality drink - Bacaro, the new back bar adjoining Canberra cool icon Italian and Sons

Seated and settled, I started with the rosemary and focaccia bread I always order, dipped liberally into olive oil. Sigh. Then I got straight to the point. I equivocated over the home made chestnut pappardelle with porcini mushrooms and pork and fennel sausage with chilli – which I would very happily have eaten with gusto – but I left that to my partner in crime. Instead I headed straight for a real blast from my Adelaide past, part of my earliest discovery of Italian cuisine – saltimbocca. It’s name – literally ‘jump in the mouth’ – is well chosen. Coincidentally it's the same dish I had out the back the last time I was here - as I realised the next day, Once again, this version did the tradition proud, with tender slices of veal, lined with prosciutto, sitting on spinach with the taste of the white wine it had been cooked in and the sage hidden in the slice. With a rocket, sliced fennel, orange and almond salad accompanying it, I was content.

Then, spilling out in what was rapidly becoming a chilly evening – winter is on the way in the high country – I beat a path down Lonsdale Street to Frugii, Canberra’s own dessert laboratory. I thought I don’t even like icecream all that much but Frugii has turned me to the dark side – dark chocolate side, that is. I scanned the specials and thought I’d give the rosewater a try. I tried a sample and it was definitely the go. A cone with two scoops – rosewater and cardamon. Divine.

I used to opportunity to check out the window of AGENCY, the newly-opened retail outlet for Craft ACT, that opposite Frugii. Food and art, icecream and craft, facing off across the passage, everything in handy distance. Italian and Sons and then icecream as good as this. That’s my idea of a successful evening outing. What is happening to this city? It’s getting cooler by the minute and it’s not just the icecream or the approach of winter.

See also

'tableland' on Facebook – life on the land and at the table

'Life on the land and at the table, the companion Facebook site to this blog, for brief and topical snippets and vignettes about land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko', 'tableland' on Facebook.

Wine o’clock in downtown Moss Vale
‘I've always had a weak spot for Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands of NSW. I have been watching it slowly change over the decades since. The latest addition is a new and very funky bar, Wine Mosaic Lounge, combined with a wine vendor, Argyle Street Wine Merchant. Passing through, we stopped to sample it. We thought aloud ‘we must come back here soon’ – and we will’, Wine o’clock in downtown Moss Vale.

Big city myopia, regional cities and cool capitals – is Canberra cool and who really cares?
'I’ve been entertained by the heated discussion about whether Canberra is cool or not. The question of regional cities and cool capitals is one that won’t go away. Instead of endlessly comparing cities – Melbourne versus Sydney, Melbourne versus Canberra, Canberra versus Queanbeyan, Devonport versus East Devonport (as we did in my youth) – to gauge their degree of cool or of dismal, perhaps we’d be better seeking out the interesting places and features that lurk in every city, town and locality', Big city myopia, regional cities and cool capitals – is Canberra cool and who really cares?

Eating out in the cold country – Grazing at Gundaroo 
‘In winter your mind turns to food - well, it turns there anytime, but perhaps more so in winter. I can’t remember how many years I have been coming to Grazing restaurant, in the tiny historic town of Gundaroo, just outside Canberra – it seems like forever. In the time I’ve been coming here Prime Ministers have risen and fallen, Governments have teetered, illusions have shattered. On a Sunday recently, I ventured out from the cold of approaching winter on a clear, blue day and went there one more time for food, wine and firewood. I wasn’t disappointed’, Eating out in the cold country – Grazing at Gundaroo.

Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back
‘I seem to spend a lot of time in the small Italian and Sons restaurant in hipster heaven in downtown Braddon, with its equally small bar annexe, Bacaro, at the rear. It’s so good and so pleasant that it’s easy to forget the other parts of the Italian empire. The flagship restaurant, Mezzalira, is across the the city, near the National University. It’s in the fabulous but somewhat neglected though stately Melbourne Building, with its Italianate arches and colonnades. I sometimes think that if suddenly the world was about to end (a bit like contemporary times) and I was offered the choice of only one cuisine until the crunch, I’d have to choose Italian. That way I could die happy,’ Mezzalira Ristorante – the Italian empire strikes back.

Ester – the sweet smell of success
‘Because the high country is adjacent to the low country, it takes only three hours to drive from the nation’s capital to the nation’s financial capital. In the early to mid 1990s Chippendale in Sydney was a suburb you travelled through to get somewhere else. All that is changing in a big way, with plenty there to explore. A sure sign of these times is eatery Ester, a restaurant that reflects the focus of its name on the science of food with some intrepid experiments in the culinary arts’, Ester – the sweet smell of success.

In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts

‘Tucked away in a corner at the Ainslie shops where it’s easy to miss entirely ­– in the heart of the suburb know as the Red Centre for it’s exceptionally high Labor vote – is an unexpected delight. The location has hosted a series of less than successful ventures but this most recent has been an unqualified success. Who would have thought that a cafe hailing from Brittany could attract such a crowd. The secret of success is that it focuses on what it does and it does it well. You can park yourself inside the small venue or outside if the weather is fine and pick from some unexpected sweet pastries, throw down the odd glass of French wine or eat buckwheat pancakes or baguettes. The cafe also runs to daily specials that can be very unexpected. Long may it reign over us – Rule Brittany rather than Rule Britannia’, In a corner with a cake (or two) – the hidden attraction of local hangouts.

We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii 
‘I realise I may have just become a statistic. I have a suspicion that I have eaten more sorbet, gelato and icecream since local Canberra icecream outlet Frugii opened in Canberra’s Braddon perimeter than I have eaten in my whole previous life. Tucked away in hipster heaven, it keeps churning out flavours, in an ever changing smorgasbord of coldness’, We all scream for icecream – cooling down in a cold climate with Frugii.

Peas in a pod – food takes off
‘Pod Food is in the heart of the slightly ramshackle gardening and nursery hub of Canberra, Pialligo , adjacent to the burgeoning exercise in urban growth called Canberra Airport. It was always the place you went to get large pots and even larger apples. Pod Food was always good enough – but now it is something a whole lot more impressive. On a rainy Friday I entered through their marvellous cottage garden entrance way to sit on the covered and contained outside deck. The entrance to Pod Food, formerly part of an operating nursery, is the sort of garden I eventually want to have. It felt highly suitable sitting at the entrance to the Australian high country as the rain came down, drinking the fine product of another high region on the opposite side of the world’, Peas in a pod – food takes off.

Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven
‘It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. My attention was drawn to the rare appearance of vitello tonnato. My imagination had been captured decades ago when I was a young boy by seeing the recipe for the dish in Margaret Fulton’s classic cookbook. I finally tried it in a tiny restaurant in Florence, during my first visit overseas, after a stint at the massive Frankfurt Book Fair in 1989. This most recent one was the best I have ever eaten outside my own home – well, perhaps the best anywhere. This is a favourite place, probably my most favourite in Canberra. Coming here always makes me feel happy and what more can you ask?’, Vitello Tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven.

Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century
‘On a day and night which was bitterly cold – as cold as Canberra has been this year, with the hint of snow clouds overhead – I was reminded why I live here. As we wandered along after a full day of cultural institutions and design events, looking for somewhere to eat we impetuously popped into Restaurant Eightysix and even more impetuously were able to get a table. I had forgotten reading somewhere that famed long-former Adelaide chef, Christine Manfield was here for the month, cooking up an Asian-inspired menu. How much better could it get?’, Eating out in a cold, funky city – Canberra comes of age in the Asian Century.

Smoking for broke beside the Molongolo
‘Where the market gardens that supplied Canberra as far back as the 1820s used to be a small fortune has been spent turning 86 acres overlooking the Eastern end of Lake Burley Griffin into a superb regional restaurant, Pialligo Estate Farmhouse Restaurant. It made for a tremendous birthday lunch in a spacious airy and light space, full of exciting food treated well. I couldn’t take my eyes off the copper guttering and downpipes. I thought all the loose copper in the world had already been stolen but clearly it’s still available. It’s quite clear that even though work is still being finalised, when it is finished it will be a spectacular addition to the nation’s capital and the region’, Smoking for broke beside the Molongolo.

Provenance - knowing where good things come from
‘It took me only five years but I finally found my way to Provenance, the legendary regional restaurant established by chef Michael Ryan in Beechworth in 2010. Provenance is widely considered one of the best restaurants in regional Victoria, in a tiny state that contains many good regional restaurants. I had been meaning to eat there since it was established and given how regularly we travel to Beechworth and its surrounds I was amazed I hadn’t been earlier. It took some time but it was worth it’, Provenance - knowing where good things come from

In praise of the Berra
‘When I first moved to Canberra, almost as an accidental intersection of geography and employment after the Sydney Olympics, I used to say “if you had lived in Sydney and one day you woke up and discovered you were in Canberra, you would think you had died.” Then I changed my mind. It took ten years but it was inevitable. Berrans are a hardy bunch – they can withstand the hot winds of summer and of Australia’s Parliament, the chill flurries from the Snowy Mountains and the chilling news of budget cuts. The Berra is half-way between everywhere’, In praise of the Berra.

Vitello tonnato for a life well lived in hipster heaven

It had been quite a week and I had been crushed by too many encounters with the crazy world of Centrelink as I fulfilled my long list of aged care responsibilities. I needed cheering up so last night we ate out at the venerable Italian and Sons, the very first of the many funky venues which now enliven Braddon. The most recent innovation is a bar out the back of the restaurant that you enter, past a tall pile of firewood, from the side laneway.

It was barely 5.45 pm so I was the first arrival through the rear door and could pick any seat I chose – which I did with great enthusiasm. Unfortunately the extraction fan for their open fire wasn’t working so the stack of solid wood logs sat quietly and coldly in the corner. I had an Italian Indian pale ale beer with extra hops that I’ve had there before, a Birra del Borgo ‘ReAle Extra’ Indian Pale Ale Extra Hops from Lazio, and it was so much fun I followed it with a Spanish manzanilla sherry, the NV Delgado Zuleta 'La Goya' - Manzanilla Sanlucar de Barrameda. I was forgetting Centrelink faster than a politician forgets the last election commitment.

Vitello tonnato recipe in the international section of the classic Australian cookbook, the Margaret Fulton Cookbook, first published in 1968

Once in the main front part of the restaurant, having managed to snare a couple of places perched at the bar, I was confronted by a choice that made resistance futile. I began with the focaccia bread with rosemary – a simple but dazzling delicacy that caught the attention of Sydney food reviewers from the very start.