Duck breast and rosé on a wet spring day

Accompanied by an elderly relative who likes eating out, we needed somewhere new on a wet spring day in the nation's capital. We decided we'd try out The Italian Place, tucked away in a back street near the busy part of the Braddon restaurant and coffee precinct. We hadn't been back for a while but it turned out to be a wise move – a view obviously shared by plenty of others.

The small precinct in Braddon in the heart of Canberra where the Italian Place is located is becoming quite attractive – or at least it will be once the roadworks are finished. We popped in for a quick lunch during the week. Luckily we booked because as we ate, people kept on turning up until the whole place was full. Co-owner, Tony Lo Terzo, is a long-term institution on the Canberra restaurant scene and he knows his stuff. His neighbouring deli and mini-supermarket is also terrific – try the negronis, especially in summer sitting out on the footpath. To be exact his Mort Street mini-empire comprises The Italian Place Enoteca, Providore and Bottega – three bundles of goodness in one.

Duck breast with cauliflower puree, radishes and sour cherries

We ordered a couple of specials and I was impressed by a duck liver paté to start, followed by an exceptional duck breast with cauliflower puree and sour cherries, asparagus, spinach, watercress and radishes – oh, and a glass of local Lerida Estate rosé. Sometimes with duck it can be so rare that you feel that if you closed your eyes it might walk off the plate, but this was moist and tender while still cooked through – thoroughly enjoyable.

When I mentioned this someone who is now living in Melbourne commented that they always made a point of visiting this restaurant whenever they come to Canberra. I can see why.

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