Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Taste of Lyon in the capital – Les Bistronomes starts from a high mark

I can’t believe we haven’t been to Les Bistronomes, a fine French restaurant, since it moved from Braddon to Campbell years ago. The old location still remains an empty shell covered in graffiti. It used to be one of our favourites and recently we were reminded why. If anything its food has become even better and in a French restaurant you’re already starting from a high benchmark. As I walked in from the heat outside I noticed several dishes already out on the tables I walked past and thought ‘food looks good’.

The restaurant is in the same location as an earlier star, The Lanterne Rooms, which itself has moved elsewhere in the area. Like many Canberra inner-city shopping precincts, Campbell Shops are old. As a result, during the course of the meal, we had three power outages – too many shops sharing the same power supply for too many air-conditioners on a day that reached 37 degrees Centigrade. It’s something we will have to get used to, as electricity demand and temperatures both rise.
 
Restaurant through a glass of wine.

Global Creative Cities
The chef and owner hails from Lyon, a city we know well. It's no accident that it is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy – a global network to which we hope to add Canberra, as a City of Design.